Maker's Mark master distiller Dave Pickerell gives us a peek inside the bourbon life.
Folks think bourbon will blow your ears off. And 50 years ago, it would have; nobody cared what it tasted like. But everything on the market now is better than anything that was on the market in those post-Prohibition years. Bourbon is for modern sophisticates; small-batch and single-barrel bourbons are more and more popular. At Maker's we do only one product, but I would like to release a case or two of what we call White Dog; it's the clear spirit that comes off the still. Our business is such a brotherhood that Jimmy Russell, the Wild Turkey master distiller, has a White Dog bottle on a shelf next to all his trophies. One time I was at a tasting with him, and there was someone up in front talking about vanillas, caramels, tobacco, dark chocolate - on and on. Jimmy shakes his head and finally says to me, "I don't know about you, but I didn't put any of that shit into my bourbon."
When Corn Goes To Heaven
Bourbon is the classic American whiskey. It must by law be made from grain consisting of at least 51 percent corn plus barley and one other grain (usually rye), distilled at less than 160 proof, it cannot go into the barrels at higher than 125 proof and aged for at least two years in new, charred white oak barrels. Bourbon also must be made within the United States (Federal Law). And nothing else can be added prior to bottling. Any deviation from these rules and it can't be called bourbon. (Thus Jack Daniels and George Dickel both from Tennessee and filtered through sugar maple charcoal don't qualify.) Still within this narrow range of requirements is an infinite variety of recipes and techniques.
To cut or not to cut? Cutting refers to diluting bourbon with a little bit of water, said to bring out the nuances of flavor and nose, depending on with whom you’re drinking (it’s an ongoing debate between master distillers and bourbon connoisseurs). There’s already plenty of water in there (Kentucky’s limestone spring water is not only the main ingredient, but also the reason bourbon thrives in these parts).
Bourbon:
Ancient Age
Not bad for a medium-priced brand. A nice body, a medium-rich color and some distinct vanilla flavor. Not too "hot" either. 80 proof.
Austin Nichols Wild Turkey
Light on the sweetness, harsher on the palate. Which means it burns a bit more (experts use the word "hot"). 80 proof.
Evan Williams
Dark taste, with a rich color. The typical flavors of bourbon include vanilla, but this one is a bit more cinnamon. Not bad, but takes getting used to. 86 proof.
Jim Beam
Smooth, sweet and mellow, just like it should be. Can be sipped neat" (no ice or water) without discomfort to either the palate or the wallet. 80 proof
Knob Creek
Premium (i.e., expensive), with a rich gold color. Sharp, strong, with a distinct grain "attack" on the first taste. But why not? It's 50 percent alcohol! 100 proof
Labrot and Graham Woodford Reserve
Expensive but worth it. Complex, with a nice smooth richness and good vanilla flavor. This is one you don't want to water down. 90.4 proof.
Maker's Mark
A premium, and it looks it. The taste is rich, bright and lively. This is the only one that substitutes winter wheat for the rye. 90 proof
Old Grand-Dad
A light color, and a light flavor. It's pleasant but simple, which is to say, a workhorse - good for unfussy, straightforward drinking. 86 proof.
You can't go wrong with any of them. After all it's bourbon! - Ellis Weiner
Whisky became a Kentucky specialty. Distilled grains were easier and cheaper to transport in their liquid form than the heavy and bulky grains themselves. Whisky was made from corn and rye, and the local limestone spring water was important to the taste of the finished product. Kentucky distillers developed Bourbon, a form of whisky aged in barrels, and it became a famous product around the world. By 1790, before Kentucky was even a state, there were already 25 distilleries in Bourbon County, a dry county these days. First governor Isaac Shelby was a distiller.
Bourbon has undergone an extreme makeover during the last few years, emerging from Kentucky Bluegrass Country as the belle of the ball. Like tequila’s long-fought battle against the margarita, bourbon has fought a similar foe in Coca-Cola. "Beam and Coke” has previously been as ubiquitous in bars south of the Mason-Dixon line as "Can I buy you a drink?” These days, however, bourbon is popping up in a lot more places.
Across the country, a bottle of single-barrel bourbon like Blanton’s or Booker’s has become not only an apt housewarming gift, but a sign of a guest who knows a thing or two about drinking well. Nowhere is bourbon’s stylish rise more evident than at the newly opened Maker’s Mark Bourbon House & Lounge in downtown Louisville.
There once was a time when bourbon meant nothing more than Kentucky swill, but those days are long past. So the next time someone shows up at your black tie event with a bottle of bourbon instead of bubbly, don’t think that guest a heathen. Bourbon is the new Bordeaux. If any of your grape-guzzling friends disagree, have them take it up with Bill Samuels Jr. "We dispelled the image of bourbon as a Kentucky ("White Dog” whiskey) moonshine, cowboy-and-Indian, blow-your-ears-off drink,” he says. "All of which was true, by the way.”
Pop quiz: What’s the national drink of the United States? If you’re like most folks, you either think it’s Budweiser — which it most certainly is not — or a baffled look sweeps across your face and you come up with something along the lines of "Beats the heck out of me.” The answer, passed by way of an act of Congress in 1964, is bourbon, the Kentucky version of whiskey (as opposed to Scottish, Irish, Canadian, Tennessean, or whoever else might make an attempt).
The Bourbon Cocktail
Mint Julep
We're of the opinion that the less you do to "America's native spirit," the better. That said, we can get behind the julep: bourbon, water, muddled mint, a dash of sugar, crushed ice. Then it's off to the races like Colonel Sanders.
Bourbon And Coke
Ordering one not only shows a total lack of creativity; it's an affront to every manly whiskey drinker who's come before you. And ordering Diet Coke is adding insult to injury. Kind of like killing Hemingway all over again. It is one to banish forever.
Things a Man Should Know About Drinking
The perfect manhattan: two parts bourbon, one part sweet vermouth, bitters, and a splash of cherry juice. Over rocks or not.
At the holiday office party, consume one drink less than your boss.
The one foolproof hangover cure: Don't get drunk.
Once you've fallen off a stool, there is little you can say to the bartender that will change his mind about asking you to leave.
If you don't smoke and you're in a bar, don't complain about other people who happen to be smoking, because, virtuous friend, you are in a bar.
Evan Williams Vintage Bourbon
Go back in time…to black out.
Unlike women, the older your bourbon is, the better it tastes. Also unlike women, proof of age with bourbon is very important. Luckily, Evan Williams combines the two philosophies with its single barrel vintage bourbon, giving you the date of your aged drink right on the label. By bottling their product from a single barrel, and disclosing the year in which it was bottled, Evan Williams gives you the opportunity to enjoy the subtle year-to-year distinctions usually reserved for fine wines. But that's the only part of this rugged bourbon that should be compared to its crushed grape counterpart. Combining a distinct taste with a hearty aftertaste, this bourbon will keep you warm straight through the holiday season. Hell, depending on how much you imbibe, it might even make your family tolerable!
Drink like a horse this Derby season with Elijah Craig 12-year-old Bourbon.
Whether you plan on attending the upcoming Kentucky Derby or not, three things are certain: you'll need to outfit your girlfriend with an enormous hat; you'll have to bet the farm on a future can of Alpo and you'll need to celebrate your newfound gambling addiction with Elijah Craig—one of Kentucky's finest small batch bourbons. Whether you're making mint juleps for friends or just sipping it while you shred betting tickets, Elijah Craig will turn any day into a derby. Affordably priced at $17.99 (750 ml) it has the balance, richness and complexity of higher priced bourbons and continually rates near the top of critic's lists, making it one of the best bourbons for the buck. Sure, you can drop $200 on fancy scotch. Or you can save $180 on whiskey that’s just as smooth. Elijah Craig Kentucky Straight Bourbon—named for the preacher who invented the hooch—is a 12–year–old small–batch classic that’s rich, sour–sweet, and way cheaper than it oughta be.
Woodford Reserve Distiller's Select
The drunkest thing to come out of Kentucky since Uncle Dad.
Aside from Uncle Dad screaming at you to “squeal like a pig,” the state of Kentucky has given us some pretty great stuff: The Kentucky Derby practically makes gambling a national pastime each May; their tobacco fields have shown us how cool it is to be a smoker; and their bourbon distilleries complete the hat trick for sinful behavior—and Woodford Reserve Distiller’s Select is one of the Bluegrass State's most sinful pleasures. With its nose full of buttery pecans, all the way down to the smooth finish of marmalade and corn, this Labrot and Graham bourbon proves Kentucky has the market cornered on vices. Except for Miami. Nothing was cooler than Tubbs’ convertible.
Where the Buffalo Roam
Buffalo Trace has great bourbon by the barrelful, and we had the terrible job of tasting them all. It's OK, we'll find a way to get through this. After being named Distillery of the Year by Whisky Magazine, Buffalo Trace is on the verge of becoming the next Jack Daniels. Their George T. Stagg bourbon has repeatedly won Bourbon of the Year awards and is a cult icon among whiskey experts. To see how their whiskey stacks up, we gathered three amateur drinkers and an expert—Buffalo Trace ambassador Kris Comstock—to give their opinions on a few of Buffalo Trace's offerings. And then we went out, ordered some hot wings and watched a Bills game. Ya know, to keep with the theme.
Buffalo Trace
Expert says: With its hint of sweet mint and balanced vanilla and molasses flavors, this small batch bourbon was named after the buffalo trails carved in Kentucky back in the 1700s. John (writer): Tough and gritty. A great bottle to pass around the campfire. Scott (writer): This starts on the front of your tongue and then jumps to the back. It tastes like the heart of bourbon. Andrew (technical director): The funny thing is, I keep a bottle of this at my desk. It helps me think. Sort of.
Expert says: This bourbon is sweet and oaky with a small wisp of spice to round it out. John: This plays nice and doesn't bite back. It's clean and easy with a sweet swizzle of brown sugar. Scott: This is like smoking a $15 cigar and eating a great chocolate bar. The flavor hits all the right spots on the palette. Andrew: I was 20 years old when this was bottled, which makes me feel old. It's much smoother than the previous one.
Eagle Rare 17-Year-Old
Expert says: With its light touch of caramel and leather, this oaky bourbon is complex and has an almondy finish. John: This is like a secret place inside you that no one else can touch. Hide this bottle there and keep it safe. Scott: The first whiff of this went to the core of my being. I could still taste it on the back of my throat long after I took a sip. It's a nice ride. Andrew: Mellow and more complex. It's sort of subtle, like a fine wine. Am I drunk? Why am I talking like this?
William Larue Weller
Expert says: Named after the father of wheated bourbon, this uncut and unfiltered bourbon carries a sweet vanilla, cinnamon and candied fruit flavor. John: This is smart, sexy and more than a little mysterious. Like the feeling you get when you see short skirts and tall boots. Scott: This bourbon is the equivalent of "Stairway to Heaven." You'll feel a little ridiculous drinking it at first, but it's ultimately a satisfying experience. [Editor's note: Scott also said, "This aroma is like smelling a filet on the hibachi while holding a $900/night hooker's panties over your face." but we didn't have enough room to include it in this piece.] Andrew: "Uncut" sounds sort of disturbing, but it tastes amazing with a sort of caramel flavor. I'm starting to feel pretty happy.
George T. Stagg
Expert says: This extremely hearty whiskey comes straight out of the barrel. It's big, chewy and tastes like molasses with a hint of tobacco. John: This is the heavy ballistics of a double-barreled sawed off twelve-gauge shotgun with a helluva kick. Sit back and let it blow a hole in your chest. Scott: This bites hard at first and uses all of its teeth—even the back molars. It scared the hell out of me at first, but after a few sips, Mr. Stagg stops biting. Still, I suggest a bit of water with this one. Andrew: This is incredibly strong, but not harsh. I might try to steal this bottle.
